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Behind the Design: the Wallace & Barnes Chino, Three Ways

Chinos are part of every guy’s standard rotation, but this season, our Wallace & Barnes chinos come in three different fabrics that are anything but ordinary. We checked in with our designer Jesse to find out what makes them a cut above your average khakis.

Jesse with our Wallace & Barnes chinos that feature details like a button fly, triangular back-pocket flaps and bar tacking at the seams, just like the military originals (but in a slimmer fit).

“Our raw selvedge chinos use the same heavy cotton as a pair of raw jeans, so you can expect them to break in and wear like high-quality denim. We also created a more seasonal chino, using undyed seeded cotton with natural irregularities. Both pairs really capture the Japanese approach of limited-run fabrics produced on vintage looms, which makes them a great fit for the denimhead who wants to branch out.”
Samples of Japanese selvedge chino fabric featuring the signature self-finished woven strip at the edges. Shop Japanese selvedge chinos.

Jesse in his pair of raw selvedge chinos that show five months of wear.

“Guys really started wearing chinos on a day-to-day basis after WWII, and a lot of that had to do with the fabric: cotton twill from the Cramerton mill in North Carolina. Cramerton cloth, as it was known, is very dense and built to stand up to a lot of wear, which is why it was used for military uniforms starting in the ’30s. We designed our Cramerton cloth chinos to appeal to that same tough vintage sensibility by lightly washing them to create a lived-in look.”
A vintage label for Cramerton chinos.

Jesse compares a vintage pair of Cramerton chinos (right) with our updated version. Shop Cramerton Army Cloth chinos.

“We wanted a chino that captured that effortless sense of style and cool that comes naturally to Italian guys, so we started with a substantial cotton twill from Italy’s Tessuti di Sondrio mill. Then, we dyed the fabric after it had been sewn together into a complete garment, resulting in these great highs and lows of color around the seams. It’s a more relaxed approach to a really polished fabric, so it’s perfect for anyone looking for a softer, broken-in pant.”
The back-pocket flap of a pair of our di Sondrio chinos showing the highs and lows of color around the seams, achieved through garment-dyeing. Shop garment-dyed chinos.

Photographs by Shawn Brackbill.

Special thanks to Stumptown Coffee Roasters.

Shop all Wallace & Barnes chinos here.

TAGS: inspiration, mens, wallace & barnes, behind the design